What Causes Dark Circles Under Eyes?

Dark circles under the eyes are one of the most common cosmetic concerns. The frustrating truth is they have multiple causes — and treatments only work if they're targeting the right one.

The Main Causes

Thin skin and visible blood vessels

The skin under the eyes is the thinnest on the body — sometimes only 0.5mm thick. In some people (particularly those with fairer skin), the blood vessels underneath show through as a bluish or purple tint. This is largely genetic and more pronounced when you're tired (blood vessels dilate when you're fatigued).

Pigmentation

Excess melanin in the under-eye skin creates brown or greyish circles. This is particularly common in people with darker skin tones and tends to run in families. Sun exposure makes it worse.

Hollowness (volume loss)

As we age, fat and collagen under the eye diminishes, creating a shadow in the hollow between the lower eyelid and cheek. This "tear trough" shadow looks dark even when the skin itself is normal colour. Common from mid-30s onwards.

Puffiness creating shadows

Puffy lower eyelids cast shadows that appear as dark circles, especially in certain lighting. Caused by fluid retention, allergies, or age-related fat redistribution.

Dehydration

When you're dehydrated, the skin under the eyes looks dull and sunken, making blood vessels more visible.

Allergies

Allergic rhinitis causes the small blood vessels under the eyes to dilate and darken. Rubbing itchy eyes also breaks small capillaries and causes discolouration.

What Actually Helps

Treatment depends on the cause:

For vascular/thin skin circles:

• Cold compresses in the morning (temporarily constrict blood vessels)
• Caffeine-based eye creams (caffeine constricts blood vessels short-term)
• Retinol (builds collagen over time, thickening the skin)
• More sleep consistently (not a one-off)

For pigmentation:

• SPF under the eyes daily (prevents UV darkening)
• Vitamin C serums (inhibit melanin production over months of use)
• Niacinamide (reduces pigmentation)
• Prescription hydroquinone (for significant pigmentation — doctor-prescribed)

For hollowness:

• Hyaluronic acid filler injected into the tear trough — the most effective treatment for this type, done by a dermatologist or aesthetics provider
• Topical treatments don't address volume loss

For puffiness/shadows:

• Reduce salt intake (fluid retention)
• Sleep with head slightly elevated
• Antihistamines for allergy-related puffiness

For everyone:

• Stay hydrated
• Reduce alcohol (causes water retention and thin blood vessels)
• Consistent, adequate sleep (7–9 hours)
• Don't rub your eyes

The Honest Answer on Eye Creams

Most eye creams offer modest, temporary benefits at best. Caffeine and peptide creams can reduce puffiness and slightly plump skin. Retinol builds collagen over months. But no topical cream eliminates hereditary dark circles or tear trough hollowness — those require different interventions.

Concealer remains the fastest, most reliable cosmetic fix while you work on longer-term solutions.